Successful Tanzanite Purchasing on the Internet

You want to know what to look for when making a loose tanzanite or gemstone purchase?  A little guidance and knowledge will help you avoid the common pitfalls when making your next purchase.

So...you've been looking to purchase a quality tanzanite on the internet and you need some help determining what characteristics you should be looking for in a quality gem. This article is intended as a resource to help guide you through a successful tanzanite purchase by avoiding many of the common pitfalls that some consumers become entangled. These pitfalls can often leave a sour taste in your mouth and make you a little head-shy about Purchasing Tanzanite Online.

I am aware that several of our happy tanzanite clients have had bad previous tanzanite purchasing experiences, and some, in my opinion, were downright awful. The common themes in their communications include:

Didn't really "know" the seller as good as I should have...

Color in hand was significantly different than the image shown online...

Didn't read the "fine print"...

Wanted to return the tanzanite and the seller charged a hefty re-stocking fee...

Didn't understand the importance of clarity, tone, hue and saturation before making my tanzanite purchase...



And the list goes on and on... If you have not been through an experience like this, either you're a really web-savvy consumer or you have just been plain lucky. Many tanzanite consumers have thrown a lot of their hard-earned dollars into gems that are of significantly less value than the money they have spent. This is unfortunate for them and quite disappointing to the "good guys" within the gemstone industry.

How many times have you wanted to know that you are making the correct assessment of a potential tanzanite that you intend to purchase online? I have been asked this question frequently and I am amazed that a large percentage of consumers simply do not do the necessary homework before making a buying decision. Certainly not due to the lack of credible resources that are available to the consumer, many people simply let the "want" of an immediate purchase get ahead of their good judgment.

Let's start with a generic list of things to consider in the process of making a tanzanite purchase. The "generic list" includes such items as the "5 W's," namely, Who, What, Where, Why, When. If your inquiry covers several or even all of these questions, you have made a good start in obtaining the necessary information you need in making a wise purchasing decision on your next tanzanite.

Who you are considering doing business with and where they are located can tell you much about a tanzanite retailer. Is the tanzanite retailer headquartered domestically or are they a foreign company with an online presence? This fact is generally known/disclosed at the time you make payment, but not always. The whole foreign vs. domestic issue is another discussion altogether, but you need to decide in your own mind what you're most comfortable with. Some foreign companies use a domestic mail drop to ship their tanzanites. On the surface, they appear to be a domestic company, which would willingly submit to FTC rules and regulations, many of which protect you as the consumer, but some foreign companies couldn't care less about these guidelines. So, it never hurts to ask the question. This will help you to avoid the smoke-and-mirrors game that many foreign sellers implement in their marketing strategy. I know of one company, in particular, marketing gemstones that has many concurrent reincarnations, as I like to call them, on the internet at the same time. They have many websites, all with different looks, and sell essentially from the same inventory. While this type of masked marketing is not in and of itself "bad" nor "dishonest," it sure makes it difficult to get the answer to these first couple of questions and creates confusion for many tanzanite buyers. Who am I considering doing business with and where are they located? You might want to cat around on google a bit to find available information and maybe even get some references. Testimonials and referrals represent a major portion of our business and we willingly share our customer references/experiences on our site to make our reputation "real" for would-be clients. Good stuff! So, understanding who you are about to do business with and where they are located provides you with a foundation of knowledge from which to proceed in the process of obtaining your first/next tanzanite.

The What question may be answered by simply taking a look at the overall quality range of tanzanites the retailer is offering on their site. Does the tanzanite retailer carry low-grade tanzanites, high-grade, or a broad range of quality? This should speak volumes to you. There are many retailers that simply carry the lower grades of tanzanite for a cheap price and show out the best of these grades as top-quality stones. When you view the pictures of these stones, you may think you are looking at "AAA" color, relative to other tanzanites listed, when in fact you may still looking at run-of-the-mill tanzanites that may be slotted a bit higher in the color range than the others. And yes, there are a LOT of these types of stones available for around $300/ct by a growing number of vendors. The statements regarding the quality of this material are often exaggerated and the pictures on these stones may not even be close to representing the actual item. Caveat Emptor, which is a Latin phrase meaning: "Buyer Beware!" Good advice for us all. Other considerations related to What include a thorough understanding of the retailer's "fine print."

The Why question is really self-explanatory.... because you want to own a quality tanzanite. Right? In addition, you probably want to try to understand why the company, whose tanzanite you are viewing, is in the tanzanite business. What I mean by this is...other than the obvious reason, to sell a product for a profit, do they appear to have a good business interest in tanzanite or does the seller just offer it as another line of gemstones on their site. Your interests would be best served by shopping with a retailer that has a good stake and large general emphasis in tanzanite. This will provide you with your best chance at viewing a nice collection of gems from which to choose and competitive pricing. Additionally, I recommend that you purchase from sellers that are more than happy to work with you on a custom order. If they are hesitant to do this, it may mean that they are getting their tanzanite from other retailers (vs. a tanzanite sightholder or supplier) and don't want to mess with an order like yours because they simply can't turn around a custom order quickly. It is then possible for you to find yourself purchasing a stone which is only close to what you really desire. Why settle for something "close" when you are getting ready to drop a chunk of hard-earned change on a tanzanite?

And finally, the When question deals with such inquiries as: When will my order ship and by what method (carrier)? Are there any extra fees when shipping gemstones? When do you restock your tanzanite inventory? When is the best time of year to purchase? You get the idea. By asking these types of questions, you get to know your retailer better and can pave the way for a long-term, successful relationship with your tanzanite dealer.

In summary, it is important that you have a good understanding of the company from which you wish to make a gemstone purchase AND their quality and price are in keeping with your overall expectations. In our company's experience, we have found it amazing how much repeat business we have done with our valued clients over the years by simply providing answers to these basic questions.

Hopefully, you will make many wise tanzanite purchases in the days, months and years to come. Tanzanite is a truly incredible gemstone, but you owe it to yourself to get the facts FIRST before adding a gorgeous tanzanite to your collection. I encourage you to put this "purchasing model" in place to avoid the common pitfalls and disappointments of making incorrect buying decisions on your next tanzanite purchase.

Bridal Jewelry and The Dress

We all know that when a bride to be has already spent practically twenty years planning her wedding before she even knows who the groom is, the image that she dreams of is how she will look on her wedding day.  Every little detail counts and is carefully pondered upon before making the all important wedding decisions.

The first part of the dream is “The Dress”, the wedding gown, her day, her style.  The selection of the wedding gown is one of the most important items a bride to be must decide upon.  The dress no matter what the style should always be a selection that the bride to be feels elegant and beautiful in.  Whether a bride envisions herself in a simple white gown, a lacy gown or a bright pink gown, the bride’s attitude in the dress is what makes that bride an individual and beautiful bride on her wedding day.  The selection of the wedding gown should always remain fun and as stress free as possible, buy what makes you feel beautiful.

Now that the dress has been chosen, you have been measured and the all important deposit has been made, you are committed to “The Dress”, you need to finish off your bridal look for your wedding day.  This is where all of the little details that you hem and haw about for hours come together to make a magnificent and magical combination of the perfect bride!  The shoes, the garter, the something old something new and last but certainly not least, the Bridal Jewelry!

The bridal jewelry that the bride to be decides upon should coordinate with the wedding gown she has selected to wear for the big wedding day.  Keeping in mind the style of your dress, the bridal jewelry selection must be made with as careful of attention to detail as when choosing your wedding gown.  The bridal jewelry chosen by the bride should finish off your look and bring the entire ensemble together. 

Some suggestions to follow as to the style of dress you are wearing to match the style of the bridal jewelry you will wear follows.

Open Backed Dress -  When wearing an open back dress, adding a bridal jewelry lariat is a great way to add the final detail to show off your beautiful wedding gown.  A bridal lariat is a piece of bridal jewelry that the bride wears around her neck like a normal necklace; however; the back of the neck will have a longer dangling piece of jewelry to finish off the look.  Depending upon the piece of bridal jewelry, lariats can be purchased that are adjustable, which will be a better fit for any bride with a backless dress.  Another great way to show off a backless dress is a bridal jewelry choker or bridal jewelry collar with a hanging jewel embellishment in the back.  Bridal chokers have become a very modern and popular choice for brides that want an edgier bridal look and feel that still embraces the classic and elegant bride.

V Neck Dress -  When a bride is wearing a v neck style wedding gown, Y- drop necklaces are a very nice touch for bridal necklace jewelry.  The Y- drop necklace takes the same angles as the v neck wedding gown line.  Bridal chokers are also a great selection for the bride that is wearing a v line dress.  The choker gives clean lines and does not distract from the v neck style of dress.  Regular simple and double strand necklaces also work very nicely for this style of wedding gown, as they provide a simple but elegant style that compliments the v neck.

Square Top Dress – For the brides that select a very traditional square top wedding gown, simple single strand and double strand bridal jewelry necklaces are a great way to finish off the neckline.  They bring contrast and attract the eye towards the cut of the dress.  For a very clean lined look, bridal jewelry chokers are the most perfect style of bridal jewelry necklines for the square top dress.  The bridal choker has become more and more popular as the years pass, now with so many options available; brides are finding it easier to select the perfect bridal jewelry choker that fits the style of their gowns.

The Sweetheart Gown -  The sweetheart gown style of wedding gown is accessorized nicely with a y – drop necklace, as it follows the line of the top of the wedding gown.  Also with this style of gown, bridal chokers go nicely, as well as pendant necklace and simple round necklaces.  The sweetheart gown is such a nice choice; the bridal jewelry that you select to wear with the gown should always compliment that neckline.

Strapless Dress – When a bride wears a strapless gown, there are many options for the bridal jewelry necklace.  A bridal jewelry choker is such a great way to compliment the line of the top of the dress.  A choker brings a symmetrical and parallel line, and adding a sparkly pearl or swarovski crystal bridal jewelry choker or collar with a strapless gown is so elegant and sophisticated.  In addition to the bridal choker, simple pendant necklaces as well as single strand and multi-strand necklaces make great choices for the strapless style wedding gown.  Wearing a strapless gown draws much attention to the shoulders and neck region, so wearing the perfect bridal jewelry that looks spectacular with that line of dress is very important for your bridal look.

Halter Top Dress -  The halter top dress calls for a certain type of bridal jewelry.  A dangle backed necklace or lariat are perfect for this line of wedding gown.  The attention is drawn on the front and the back, making use of the entire wedding gown to compliment your bridal jewelry.  A halter dress also looks beautifully pulled together with a y drop necklace or pendant necklace.  The y drop necklace was just about made for this style of wedding gown; the y drop centers the entire look and feel of this type of gown.

Off The Shoulder Dress -  When wearing an off of the shoulder dress, any style of bridal jewelry necklace works.  A regular single or double strand necklace can frame out your entire bridal look with simplicity.  If you choose to wear a bridal jewelry choker, that brings the eyes up to the face with ease as it finished off your bridal look.  Y drop and lariats work great with the off the shoulder dress.  Depending upon how much of your back shows, a lariat can look elegant from behind when standing at the alter, and a y drop necklace really brings focus to the bride with this gown.  What ever style you choose for this line of dress, you cannot go wrong.

One Shoulder Dress or Asymmetric Dress -  With the asymmetric gown, it is best to choose a great bracelet and pair of earrings, as a necklace will look unbalanced and unnatural.  The one shoulder dress is a bold move; wear a bold bracelet and glamorous earrings.

Scoop Necked Gown – When wearing the scooped neck gown a simple one or multi-strand necklace is perfect.  A necklace such as the simple one to five strand bridal necklaces will frame out the top of your wedding gown perfectly.  A bridal jewelry choker is also a really nice selection for this style of dress.  It is a simple and even topper to the scoop neckline, a great selection.

Whatever your dress selection, choose bridal jewelry that makes you feel gorgeous when you put it on.  Your bridal jewelry is your icing on the cake and the selection of the bridal jewelry is just as important as the selection of the gown.  Your bridal jewelry will be bridal accessories that you cherish for a life time.  You will never wear your wedding gown after the big day, but you can wear your bridal jewelry when ever you want to.  Wearing your bridal jewelry is your memory to the most special day in your life.  What ever your bridal jewelry selection, look spectacular on your wedding day because you waited for this special moment for a lifetime!

How To Purchase Gemstones on the Internet

So...you've been looking to purchase a quality gemstone on the internet and you need some help determining what characteristics you should be looking for in a quality gem. This article is intended as a resource to help guide you through a successful Gemstone Purchase by avoiding many of the common pitfalls that some consumers become entangled. These pitfalls can often leave a sour taste in your mouth and make you a little head- shy about purchasing gems of various types online.

I am aware that many people have had bad previous gemstone purchasing experiences, and some, in my opinion, were downright awful. The common themes in their communications include:

• Didn't really "know" the seller as good as I should have before purchasing my gemstone...
• Color in hand was significantly different than the gemstone image shown online...
• Didn't read the "fine print" regarding my gemstone purchase...
• Wanted to return the gemstone and the seller charged a hefty re- stocking fee...Didn't understand the importance of clarity,tone, hue and saturation before making my gemstone purchase...

And the list goes on and on... If you have notbeen through an experience like this, either you're a really web-savvy consumer or you have just been plain lucky. Many gemstone consumers have thrown a lot of their hard-earned dollars into gemstones that are of significantly less value than the money they have spent. This is unfortunate for them and quite disappointing to the "good guys" within the gemstone industry.

How many times have you wanted to know that you are making the correct assessment of a potential acquisition? I have been asked this question frequently and I am amazed that a large percentage of consumers simply do not do the necessary homework before making a buying decision. Certainly not due to the lack of credible resources that are available to the consumer, many people simply let the "want" of an immediate purchase get ahead of their good judgment. Proceed with caution is always the best place to begin.

Let's start with a generic list of things to consider in the process of making a gemstone purchase. The "generic list" includes such items as the "5 W's," namely, Who, What, Where, Why, When. If your inquiry covers several or even all of these questions, you have made a good start in obtaining the necessary information you need in making a wise purchasing decision on your next gemstone.

The Gemstone "Who" and "Where"

Who you are considering doing business with and where they are located can tell you much about a gemstone retailer. Is the gemstone retailer headquartered domestically or are they a foreign company with an online presence? This fact is generally known/disclosed at the time you make payment, but not always. The whole foreign vs. domestic issue is worthy of another discussion altogether, but you need to decide in your own mind what you're most comfortable with. Some foreign companies use a domestic mail drop to ship their gemstones. On the surface, they appear to be a domestic company, which would willingly submit to FTC rules and regulations, many of which protect you as the consumer, but some foreign companies couldn't care less about these guidelines. So, it never hurts to ask the question. This will help you to avoid the smoke-and-mirrors game that many foreign sellers implement in their marketing strategy. I know of one company, in particular, marketing gemstones that has many concurrent reincarnations, as I like to call them, on the internet at the same time. They have many websites, all with different looks, and sell essentially from the same inventory. While this type of masked marketing is not in and of itself "bad" nor "dishonest," it sure makes it difficult to get the answer to these first couple of questions and creates confusion for many gemstone buyers. Who am I considering doing business with and where are they located? You might want to cat around on google a bit to find available information and maybe even get some references. Testimonials and referrals represent a major portion of our business and we willingly share our customer references/experiences on our site to make our reputation "real" for would-be clients. Good stuff! So, understanding who you are about to do business with and where they are located provides you with a foundation of knowledge from which to proceed in the process of obtaining your first/next gemstone.

The Gemstone "What"

The What question may be answered by simply taking a look at the overall quality range of gemstones the retailer is offering on their site. Does the gemstone retailer carry low-grade gemstones, high-grade, or a broad range of quality? This should speak volumes to you. There are many retailers that simply carry the lower grades of gemstones for a cheap price and show out the best of these grades as top-quality stones. When you view the pictures of these stones, you may think you are looking at top color, relative to other gemstones listed, when in fact you may still looking at run-of-the-mill, poorly colored stones that may be slotted a bit higher in the color range than the others. And yes, there are a LOT of these types of stones available for around $300/ct by a growing number of vendors. The statements regarding the quality of this material are often exaggerated and the pictures on these stones may not even be close to representing the actual item. Caveat Emptor, which is a Latin phrase meaning: "Buyer Beware!" Good advice for us all. Other considerations related to What include a thorough understanding of the retailer's "fine print."

The Gemstone "Why"

The Why question is really self- explanatory.... because you want to own a quality gemstone. Right? In addition, you probably want to try to understand why the company, whose gemstone you are viewing, is in the gemstone business. What I mean by this is...other than the obvious reason, to sell their product for a profit, do they appear to have a good business interest in the type of gemstone you are considering or does the seller just offer it as another line of gemstones on their site. Your interests would be best served by shopping with a retailer that has a good stake and large general emphasis in the type of material in which you have an interest. This will provide you with your best chance at viewing a nice collection of gems from which to choose and competitive pricing. Additionally, I recommend that you purchase from sellers that are more than happy to work with you on a custom order. If they are hesitant to do this, it may indicate that they are getting their gemstones from other retailers and don't want to bother with an order like yours because they simply can't turn it around quickly. It is then possible for you to find yourself purchasing a stone which is only close to what you really desire. Why settle for something "close" when you are getting ready to drop a chunk of hard-earned change on a fancy gemstone for yourself?

The Gemstone "When"

And finally, the When question deals with such inquiries as: When will my gemstone order ship and by what method (carrier)? Are there any extra fees when shipping gemstones? When do you restock your gemstone inventory? When is the best time of year to purchase a quality gemstone? You get the idea. By asking these types of questions, you get to know your gemstone retailer better and can pave the way for a long-term, successful relationship with your gemstone dealer.

In summary, it is important that you have a good understanding of the company from which you wish to make a gemstone purchase AND their quality and price are in keeping with your overall expectations. In our company's experience, we have found it amazing how much repeat business we have done with our valued clients over the years by simply providing answers to these basic questions.

Hopefully, you will make many wise gemstone purchases in the days, months and years to come. There are many types of gemstones available in the market today and you owe it to yourself to get the facts FIRST before making any additions to your gemstone collection. I encourage you to put this "purchasing model" in place to avoid the common pitfalls and disappointments of making incorrect buying decisions on your next gemstone purchase. Give it a try! You'll be glad you did.

Building a Jewelry Wardrobe: A Woman's Guide to Seven Jewelry Must-Haves

Just as every woman needs a pair—or twenty—of jeans, a few pairs of black shoes (at the very least: ballet flats, thongs, kitten heels and stilettos), a cocktail dress, a few basic skirts, a chic business suit, a cardigan sweater…I could go on but you get my point. Just as every woman needs these fashion staples, she needs a few jewelry basics—seven actually—with which to accessorize her outfits.

Like a custom paint job on a sleek Harley, accessories personalize your style and tell the world that you care enough to go the extra mile for appearance’s sake. And we all know that appearance counts. Within the first three seconds of taking you in, people make judgments about you that you usually cannot reverse. So why not make a good first impression with a look that is polished, put together, and says that you pay attention to style and detail? Still with me? Good. Here are seven jewelry staples no well-dressed woman should be without. Choose any one of them to accessorize in a snap, and to ensure that snap judgments made about you reflect who you really are.

Diamond studs Anyone can pull off this classic accessory. Diamond studs are elegant, timeless and simple enough to be worn with other jewelry and any style of hair or dress. Look for clear, sparkling gems with at least ½ carat total weight, set in white gold or platinum (not yellow gold) to show off their colorlessness. As for shape, round studs will always be in style, but princess cut styles are popular—and classic too. Look for screw backs to help ensure that you won’t lose your investment, and make sure the setting is secure (I prefer four prongs to three).

Be warned that quality diamond studs can be pricey. Blue Nile.com has a beautiful pair of ½ carat tw diamond studs with screw backs for $600; Tiffany & Co. sells a beautiful pair of .22 total carat weight diamonds set it platinum for $875. Can’t afford these beauties? My sparkly CZ look-alikes get the job done, and cost under $40. And I don’t have to worry about losing—or insuring them.

Pearl studs Like diamond studs, pearl studs can be worn with every style of dress, and with all types of jewelry. Unlike diamond studs, pearl studs are surprisingly affordable, especially when you choose freshwater pearls, which today can rival the beauty of their saltwater cousins. Look for round white gems that are well-matched; these are classics and won’t go out of style. Beware of purchasing button-shaped (flattened) pearls when you think you’re getting round. Choose a back that is comfortable, secure and comprised of a metal your skin can tolerate, such as white gold, yellow gold or platinum.

When wearing pearls, keep in mind that the gems are typically associated with a demure, ladylike reputation, so they’re perfect for a job interview, wedding or other formal setting. Of course, classic pearls are perfect for daytime and casual events as well, and give the wearer a timeless, feminine look that is very polished.

When buying pearl studs, choose akoya cultured pearls or their far more affordable freshwater counterparts, which are just as beautiful. For the best look, choose pearls that are 6mm or greater in size. JR Dunn sells Mikimoto akoya cultured pearls in 6mm round white for $340; MoonRiverPearls.com sells round white freshwater cultured pearls in 7mm for $38.

Dangle earrings I love dangles for their drama, and because their typical hook backs make them easy to get on and off. But many dangles aren’t for everyday; they’ll look out of place with shorts and a tank, for example. If you’re going a bit more formal, though, you have many options with this earring style. Keep in mind that if you want your dangle earrings to become a jewelry staple, look for a classic, elegant design in a neutral color, such as an all metal style or one that ends in a cultured pearl, for example. For your staple piece, don’t choose anything trendy or cute; steer clear of hearts, stars, zodiac signs and skulls. (If you want to go trendy that’s fine, just buy something inexpensive.) As for what to choose, I prefer a dangle that hangs an inch or two below the earlobe to really make a statement. White gold and yellow gold bars, chains or chandeliers are timeless favorites. Of course, hairstyle and wardrobe will play a role here too. If your hair is very long you can get away with more dramatic—and longer—styles. Remember, though, if you wear a dramatic earring it’s best to skip the necklace and let the earrings speak for themselves.

Silver or gold hoop earrings Several styles of hoop earrings can be considered jewelry staples, from small diamond-encrusted loops to gargantuan, J.Lo-style hoops. It all depends on what you like, so choose hoops that fit your personality. Keep in mind, though, that oversize hoops can overpower short hair, an updo, or a face with small features, so take in the overall picture before you step out. Small gold, silver, diamond, pearl or CZ hoops go with everything and are always in style. Look for hoop earrings with a back that’s easy to fasten and won’t readily bend or fall out. And don’t wear gigantic hoops to a job interview or other professional setting, unless you work at Vogue.

Diamond solitaire pendant There’s not enough room here to write about the five Cs of diamond quality, but, if you’re interested, there are a ton of sites out there where you can read about how to choose a diamond. As for the pendant, a single bezel set diamond on a white gold chain looks amazing, crisp and classic. Choose an 18-inch length with a secure clasp (I prefer lobster claw here) and make sure the chain is sturdy, yet thin and unobtrusive. It’s the diamond that you want to showcase here, not the chain. As with studs, you can get a gorgeous solitaire pendant made with a CZ, or, for a twist, try a pearl.

Pearl strand When choosing a classic pearl strand, look for an 18-inch princess length in a classic creamy white. This length is very versatile, and the color is timeless. Both akoya cultured pearls and freshwater cultured pearls fit the bill, although akoyas will be more expensive. Other factors to keep in mind: pearl size counts. After the 7.5-8.0 mm mark, prices rise dramatically, but a 6.5mm strand is lovely and affordable. Look at luster and surface. Pearls should have a high luster, or surface sheen, meaning they reflect light well. They should also be free from obvious blemishes. Pay attention to uniformity. Make sure the pearls are the same size, the same color and have a uniform luster—the warm glow that appears to come from within the pearl. To check that the pearls are uniformly round, roll the strand on a table. Matched pearls will roll smoothly.

So you think pearl strands are too Barbara Bush? A Tin Cup necklace, where the pearls are evenly spaced on a chain, is a gorgeous alternative.

A Classic Timepiece Lots of options here, but if you’re going to choose just one watch it has to be classic, functional and stylish. I like a water-resistant oversize sterling silver watch or a classic tank watch, both of which will look good with everything except formalwear (then you can tuck it in your clutch). A stainless steel band will wear better than leather, and is usually water-resistant, but try it on in case it feels too heavy or overwhelms your wrist. Stick with a classic white or muted watch face with numbers that are easy to read. (Bold colors are pretty, but distracting.) A glow-in-the-dark face is a plus. As for brands, Swiss Army has some great styles that wear well and don’t break the bank. If you have the means, a Tag Heuer or Rolex is always nice too. 

When you have your seven basic jewelry staples, it’s time to play. There are so many other classics you can add to your jewelry box if you’re so inclined. A diamond tennis bracelet, a beautiful Tahitian pearl bracelet, an oversize pearl cocktail ring, or a signature piece in your birthstone all look terrific. Depending on your style personality and budget, you can choose plenty of other extras to keep up with fashion trends, but keep these on the inexpensive side as they likely won’t stand the test of time. For a statement-making piece, choose an oversize cocktail ring in a bold color. Or, if you like today’s layered look, pick several chain necklaces in your favorite metal in varying lengths, and layer them with pearl strands or oversized turquoise, wood or mother-of-pearl beaded necklaces. Wide wood, mother-of-pearl or metal cuffs always look terrific, and stackable bangles, especially personalized charm bracelets, are always fun. (Do spend more on charm bracelets, as you’ll probably hang on to these.)

Still stuck on what to wear? You can always go with my favorite and most valued piece of jewelry: a handcrafted, hand painted macaroni necklace made for me by my four-year-old son.

Pearl Value Factors: Judging and Evaluating Pearls

Choosing diamonds is easy: We all know about the 5 C's. But how do you choose pearls? This article explains how to evaluate cultured pearls using the seven value factors defined by GIA.
Thanks to aggressive publicity campaigns sponsored by the diamond industry, anyone buying a diamond can confidently go into the transaction armed with enough information to ask the right questions. In the pre-purchase stage, you’ll likely query the seller about the five C’s: carat, cut, clarity, color and cost. As long as you trust the jeweler, you can be confident about the value of the gem you’re interested in based on his or her answers. But what about pearls? What questions do you ask? What does a high quality pearl look like? What are traits to avoid? Here we’ll tell you what makes a pearl valuable. We’ll also give you questions to ask your jeweler and tools to judge these lustrous gems yourself.  

Pearl Value Factors
While there is no international standard for grading pearls, there is a system that is commonly used to evaluate these beautiful colored gemstones. Developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the world’s largest non-profit institute of gemological research and learning, this grading system considers seven pearl traits when determining value. They are: size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality, and matching. Let’s take a look at each one as it relates to the beautiful cultured pearl.

Pearl Size
Pearls can be as small as a pinhead or nearly as big as a golf ball, but, of course, somewhere between these two extremes is the norm.

Size is determined by many factors. These include the size of the animal that produces the gems, the size of the implanted bead, the length of time the oyster or mollusk was allowed to form the pearl, the climate and conditions of the environment, and the health of the animal that produced the pearl.

Different types of pearls have different expected size ranges. For example, because they are produced in a relatively small oyster, akoya cultured pearls are usually much smaller than their South Sea counterparts, which are grown in one of the world’s largest mollusks, P. maxima. This large animal can accept a larger bead nucleus and can lay down nacre, the combination of organic substances that makes up a pearl, much faster than its smaller cousin. Be sure to find out what type of pearl you’re looking at (freshwater, akoya, South Sea or Tahitian). All have different expected size ranges, and anything outside the range will be reflected in the price. A guide: akoyas typically range from 2-11mm; Tahitians from 8-14mm; South Sea pearls from 9-20mm, and freshwater pearls from 4-11mm.

All other things being equal, a larger pearl will command a higher price. Larger pearls typically take longer to grow, and are not as common as smaller pearls. As in anything, however, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. For some people, another pearl value factor, such as luster, may be more important than size.


When evaluating size, keep in mind that high quality small pearls exist, as do poor quality large pearls. Thus, pearl size is only one factor to consider when judging pearl quality. Which brings us to…  

Shape
Close your eyes and picture a strand of pearls. What do you see? Probably a lustrous necklace of white round gems, right? That’s because the white round pearl necklace is a timeless jewelry staple and traditional classic in many cultures. As you can expect, round pearls are desirable due to demand, but they are also valuable because they are rare. (Think about it: Irritant enters oyster, oyster secrets nacre, nacre covers irritant. Pearl comes out…round? Doubtful.)

Although pearl culturing techniques are improving all the time, a perfectly round pearl is uncommon. (Akoya crops typically contain more spherical pearls than other pearl types.) According to GIA, collecting enough high quality round cultured pearls for a matched pearl strand can take years. Round or near round pearls will command more money than other shapes. That’s not to say that other shapes aren’t valuable. (Remember again the adage “beauty is in the eye of the beholder.”) According to GIA, drop shapes can sometimes match the value of rounds, especially when they’re symmetrical and well-formed.

Not a traditionalist? Pearls come in many shapes, and, depending on what you like, can be just as desirable, but less costly, than round. Pearl shapes include button, oval, drop, semi-baroque and baroque. Some pearls even resemble bars, crosses, and coins. Some, called circled pearls, have grooves that go around the gems’ circumference. These beauties can make wonderful jewelry. 

GIA classifies pearls into three major shape categories:
1.    Spherical: Round or near round pearls
2.    Symmetrical: When bisected, these pearls have equal halves
3.    Baroque: Pearls with no discernable symmetry

Although pearl shapes vary, those that display some type of symmetry typically cost more. But baroque pearls, either when set alone or grouped with similar shapes into a necklace or bracelet, can be highly beautiful and unusual. And baroque pearls often show orient, a desirable shimmering rainbow-like effect that adds to the pearls’ value. Many designers prefer to work with baroque pearls for their infinite design possibilities—and many consumers buy them for their unique beauty.

Color
Although white will likely always win the pearl color popularity contest, pearls come in a wide array of gorgeous colors. From the aforementioned white to grey-black, pearls can also be lavender, pink, orange and many shades in between. The choice is up to you, but keep the wearer’s skin tone in mind when choosing: Pearl color should complement the wearer’s coloring.

When describing a pearl’s color, jewelers talk about three traits: hue, which is the overall pearl color—the one you see on first impression; overtone, which is not always present but which is the secondary color you see when you look at the pearl (i.e. a pinkish blush on a white pearl) and orient, which is also not always present, but, as mentioned above, can best be described as a colorful, rainbow-like sheen.

The popularity of pearl colors waxes and wanes; value is determined by what’s in fashion. As can be expected, white is always “in.” Lavender pearls are very popular right now too. And Tahitian cultured pearls, which are typically dark gray, dark green, or dark blue/purple were, amazingly, pretty much unheard of before the 1970s, but are now widely coveted—and very costly. Sometimes, too, a model or celebrity will wear a certain pearl color and that color will experience a surge in popularity.

As with size, pearl types display typical characteristics when it comes to color. Akoyas, for example, are usually white or cream; Tahitians are typically black, gray or brown; South Sea are usually silver, white or a gorgeous golden color, and freshwater come in white, cream and a wide array of pastels. Acording to GIA, if the desirable pearl color is rare, fine pearls displaying that color it will command high prices. 

Luster
Because pearls are known for their inner glow, a trait that sets them apart from other gems, this value factor trumps all others. According to GIA, “Luster is the most important of all the value factors to the beauty of a pearl.”

Dependent on many factors, among them nacre thickness and growth conditions, luster is only good when nacre is translucent and its plates overlap in such a way that the pearl appears lit from within. Thick nacre does not guarantee sharp luster, but it certainly helps. The sharper the reflection on a pearl, the better the luster. GIA defines four categories of luster:

•    Excellent: Reflections are bright, sharp and distinct
•    Good: Reflections are bright but not sharp, and slightly hazy around the edges
•    Fair: Reflections are weak, hazy and blurred
•    Poor: Reflections are dim and diluted

Luster is one of the easiest pearl value factors to rate. Just hold an object, like a pen, close to the pearl. (Be careful not to get ink on the gem.) The sharper the reflection, the better the luster, and the more valuable the pearl will be. Note, though, that each pearl type has its own characteristic luster. Akoyas are known for their sharp, fine luster, while South Sea cultured pearls, for example, have a subtler, softer glow.

Surface Quality
Pearls are organic, and therefore “imperfect,” meaning they are not uniform, shiny, perfectly round orbs every time they come out of an oyster. Rather, as natural, layered objects, they show many surface characteristics such as abrasions, bumps, chips, cracks, pits, scratches and wrinkles. Most people will never see a perfect pearl in their lifetime, and indeed, minor surface irregularities do not detract from a pearl’s value.

As defined by GIA, there are four classifications of pearl surface characteristics:

•    Clean: Pearl can be blemish-free, or spotless, or contain minute surface characteristics that are very difficult to see when examined by a trained observer
•    Lightly blemished: Pearls show minor surface irregularities when inspected by a trained observer
•    Moderately blemished: Pearls show noticeable surface characteristics
•    Heavily blemished: Pearls show obvious surface irregularities, which can compromise durability

The pearl’s overall appearance will determine its value. Obvious or multiple surface characteristics or large blemishes that affect the gem’s durability will detract from its value, while a more clean-looking pearl is worth more. Most of us cannot afford a perfect strand of pearls, but, luckily, small bumps and blemishes can often be hidden by a drill hole. According to GIA, “…a completely clean pearl is a rare treasure. Since rarity influences value, the prices of such pearls run extremely high. Most consumers must settle for some degree of surface irregularity in the pearl they purchase. Even the finest pearls can contain minor surface characteristics.”

Nacre Quality
Directly tied to luster, nacre quality/thickness is a very important value factor which, fortunately, can be judged by the naked eye. It’s better, of course, to evaluate thickness with an x-ray machine or by cutting the pearl, but most of us don’t have such a machine, nor do we want to wear pearls that have been chopped in half. (Picture that for a minute!)

Take a look at the pearl you wish to evaluate. A chalky, dull appearance means that the nacre is probably thin. In some cases, the nacre is so thin that the bead nucleus shows through. Do not purchase these pearls—they won’t last!

GIA classifies nacre into three categories:

•    Acceptable: The pearl’s nucleus is not noticeable and the gem displays no chalky appearance
•    Nucleus Visible: The pearl shows evidence of its bead nucleus through the nacre. The pearl shows strong “blinking” (a flickering of light and dark) when it is rotated across a light source
•    Chalky Appearance: The pearl has a dull, matte appearance

Thin nacre has a negative effect on a pearl’s value, although thick nacre does not guarantee sharp luster. Thin nacre can crack, peel or otherwise deteriorate and the pearls won’t last very long. (Unlike other gems, polishing a pearl does not restore its original beauty.) Pearls with thicker nacre are more durable and more valuable. Ask about nacre thickness if you have the opportunity.

Interesting fact: Many freshwater cultured pearls are cultured with mantle tissue only, rather than a mother-of-pearl bead, and, as a result, are nearly solid nacre. Many pearl experts say that today’s freshwater cultured pearls from China now rival the beauty of Japanese akoyas!

Matching
As you can imagine, this pearl value factor only comes into play when a piece of jewelry contains more than one pearl. Some designers intentionally mismatch pearls for aesthetic effect, but when a strand is meant to be uniform, how well the gems match is an important consideration. Fortunately, this is easy to determine. Just look at the strand and note any obvious differences in the gems. (Some jewelers will try to hide small or imperfect pearls near the clasp, so check this area carefully.)

When evaluating a matched strand, keep in mind that cultured pearls are organic, not poured from a factory mold. No two are exactly alike, therefore it is impossible to make a perfect match. This does not detract from the jewelry, though, as long as, on a whole, the piece is uniform. To test, look at the strand, hold it up close and also view it at arms’ length. Are the pearls the same overall size? Color? Shape? Luster? Nacre quality? If they look the same, they’re well-matched.

GIA defines three categories of matching:

•    Excellent: Pearls are uniform in appearance and drilled in the center
•    Good: Piece shows minor variations in uniformity
•    Fair: Pearls are noticeably different from one another

According to GIA, “It takes an enormous amount of skill and labor to sort harvested pearls. The time and effort involved in producing a well-matched strand of pearls will reflect its market price.”

Conclusion
Because they are produced in different animals in different environments under unique conditions, each pearl type has its own expected characteristics. When the traits shown for a certain pearl are outside the norm for its type, the pearl will be more valuable.

Each pearl is unique, and uniquely beautiful. Which pearl and pearl type is the most beautiful? It’s up to you. (This author is partial to white baroque freshwater pearls and golden round South Sea pearls.)

Go Shopping!
Congratulations! Now you know what to look for and what questions to ask when shopping for pearls. Remember, a pearl’s worth depends on its overall look--how well it combines the seven value factors. Keep in mind that not all value factors are important to all people. You may be more interested in pearl color than pearl size, for example. As with anything, individual tastes reign supreme. Now, go forth and buy with confidence.

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